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WHO WE ARE
TRAVEL INTENSIVES - ONLINE EMBODIED DREAM INSTITUTE
DREAMING IN SOUTH AFRICA - July 10-17, 2005
UMLANI and MONTUSI
Our breathtaking journey to South Africa, took
us first, to Umlani Bushcamp in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
Situated on the western boundary of the world-renowned Kruger National Park,
there are no fences separating Timbavati from Kruger. Here, wildlife roams
at will across millions of acres of unspoiled wilderness.
In the protected parks and game reserves of South Africa an ancient spirit, older
than that of man, still survives. An experience of wilderness is a search for the elusive.
It is a total immersion into the natural world. It is an experience of not only seeing but
of feeling its timeless nature. It is an experience of wildlife that deepens the soul.
How fortunate and priviledged we were to be entering one of
the last corners of the planet totally governed by nature.
 
Photos by Lois Hogan
Scroll To The Following:
A LITTLE HISTORY - TIMBAVATI GAME RESERVE
UMLANI BUSHCAMP
MONTUSI in the DRAKENSBURG
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
A LITTLE HISTORY
Timbavati Game Reserve
Umlani is located in the Timbavati Game Reserve, one of the oldest private nature reserves in South Africa. It is
situated on the Western boundary of the Kruger National Park between the
Klaserie, Umbabat and Manyeleti reserves. Timbavati was originally formed in the 1950's, by a group
of conservation minded game farm owners, for their own mutual benefit and to
benefit the wildlife in the area. The individual farms joined together to form a pristine wilderness
area that is today privately owned by 48 individual members.
Photo by Arlene Havens
The Kreuger Park, South Africa's answer
to the Taj Mahal and Eiffel Tower, is considered the most impressive of all. The park's current boundaries were inaugurated in 2002
by a project masterminded by John Hanks , director of the Peace Parks Foundation. With wildlife conservation a top priority,
the creation of an immense wildlife park measuring 8.9 million acres(3.5 hectares), is now called The Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park(GLTP).
The GLTP includes Kreuger Park in South Africa, Gonarezhou Park in Zimbabwe, and the Goutada 16 zone in Mozambique. The plan is to further
expand the park by 23.5 million acres, making it the largest game reserve in the world.
Photo by Lois Hogan
Umlani Bushcamp works together with local landowners and lodges in the Timbavati Game Reserve in a mutually
beneficial way. This co-operation results in a huge area of more than 10,000 ha (hectares) of unspoiled wilderness for
traversing and walking. The owners and managers of these farms - like the officials of the national Parks Board - are committed to
maintaining their land in as pristine a state as possible. They are individuals who attach a great value to wildlife,
and have a strong desire to maintain that increasingly rare commodity called "wilderness". These farms represent a
different kind of investment and produce a different kind of "profit". If well tended, and disturbed as little as possible,
their wildlife and wild beauty will never be exhausted, and their value will only appreciate with time.
Photo by Liza Johnson
Photo by Arlene Havens
Man's incursions into this part of the Lowveld have always been temporary and brief, from early Stone Age down to the early
20th century. Large tracts of land in the northern portion of the Lowveld were never permanently settled by man, and the lands
now comprising the Timbavati were barely touched, and are still only lightly inhabited. This part of South Africa's bushveld
region may therefore be regarded as truly unspoiled and deserves recognition as truly wild land, as opposed to the "restored"
and "restocked" lands of other regions.
 
"In the Timbavati there exists an atmosphere of undisturbed nature - of true wilderness - which
is difficult to define and describe, but can readily be perceived by the discerning traveler. This
subtle and ineffable quality, is so powerful and captivating to the imagination. In the Timbavati,
there is a sense that the land has never belonged to man; and that ever since the Pleistocene -
"The Golden Age of Mammals" - this land has belonged to those majestic creatures that dominated
virtually the entire world during that remote epoch."
Photo by Liza Johnson
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UMLANI BUSHCAMP
Photo by Lois Hogan
Umlani, meaning "Place of Rest," was established in 1990 by Marco and Marie-Louise Schiess in the central
section of the Timbavati Nature Reserve. Marie-Louise explained to us that it was their wish "to encapsulate their vision of a true African Adventure
in the very spirit and experience of the camp itself. They wanted the camp to blend in with nature and as a result,
the entire bushcamp was built out of natural materials in a traditional African style".
 Today, the camp is managed by Donald and Nina Scott with the aim of offering guests a true wilderness adventure
that will be a life changing experience.
Umlani Bushcamp, a rustic and exclusive lodge accommodates only 16
guests in traditional African reed and thatch rondavels. Umlani's philosophy of simplicity and
'getting back to nature' is enhanced by the romance of operating without electricity and providing open-air bush showers
fuelled by wood fires. In the evenings, in an atmosphere of candlelight and oil
lamps, guests feast on Umlani's award winning menus. It's a gastronomic tour of African cuisine.
Photo by Lois Hogan
The wilderness experience is all about discovering the natural environment and the animals that live there.
We were accompanied, on our early-morning and evening game drives in
open four wheel drive vehicles, by the incredible, experienced trackers, Moses, Ginger, Shadrack, Peter and Lewis.
We traversed an area of more than 10,000 hectares where over 40 mammal and 350 bird
species make for an exceptional wildlife experience.
    
Photo by Lois Hogan
Umlani Bushcamp offers an authentic wildlife experience in Big Five territory. Lion,
leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino roam over 24 000 acres of traversing area.
 .
At Umlani game drives in open Land Rovers, guided bush walks,
and tracking game on foot with highly experienced rangers
and trackers are the order of the day. It's guaranteed to be an adventure of a lifetime in one of Africa's world-renowned
unspoilt wilderness reserves.
 Photo by Arlene Havens
Seasonal Considerations
In Winter - Mid-May through August :
Although the bush's colors are not as vibrant in winter, the foliage is the least dense of any time of year, making the spotting of
game easier than in summer. There are very few insects, snakes or reptiles. It is rare to contract malaria in the winter.
Daily temperatures typically range from about 40 F - 80 F with little, if any rain. Heavy coats, hats and gloves are
required for game drives. Conditions are generally not suitable for swimming.
 In Winter Umlani is home to African big game animals including, elephant,
lion, Cape buffalo, rhino and leopard.
 Animal favorites including giraffe, zebra, wildebeest,
warthog and impala have been sited.
Night drives offer the chance for a likely first introduction to lesser-known species such as Bush
baby, African wildcat and civet, or the dubiously ill-reputed hyena and jackal.
Not soon forgotten are the fiery blues, pinks, oranges and yellows of an African sunset dipping below the majestic
Drakensburg Mountains. Whether on a game drive or bush walk, attention will be devoted exclusively to our
 small group. During unlimited daily bush outings, we will enjoy the
freedom of focusing on our greatest area of interest, be it a particular animal, the hundreds of species of birds found
in the area, or indigenous reptiles or insects
The principal aim of the Umlani and the Timbavati reserve is the preservation of wildlands and wildlife by restoring
the land to its natural state and maintaining the mix and balance of species, conditions, and processes that have
 historically occurred
in this region. Timbavati is dedicated to the proposition that conservation's greatest purpose and challenge
is to maintain the reign of Nature. Timbavati's mission is to see that at least here - in this small, but singular
and deeply cherished part of the African Bushveld - Photo by Arlene Havens
Nature will be defended
against human impacts, and left just as it should be: natural.
Umlani is renowned for their outstanding Shangaan rangers and trackers, who will also introduce us to the wealth
of flora, fauna, bird life and cultural heritage of the region.
A morning
game drive will
leave at dawn and the night drive will leave in the late afternoon.
There is always a ranger on stand-by for an optional morning bush walk.
During the day short walks with the ranger after breakfast are offered, or lounge in the double hammocks around
the swimming pool sipping a favourite drink. Alternatively,one can laze away the day in the spacious bush bar and deck
overlooking the riverbed and watering Photo by Liza Johnson
hole. For exclusive tranquillity there is a tree house about 2.5 kms from the camp overlooking a dam, where one can be left for an hour or two with
blankets and big comfortable pillows as well as a cooler box with drinks. In the evening pre dinner drinks in the traditional boma around the fire is followed by one of
Umlani's award winning meals in the candle lit dining room, or out in the open riverbed surrounded by flares and
cauldron fires.
Umlani's traditional African reed and thatch huts will not only provide all the comforts needed, but
also provide an authentic experience of local tribal (Shangaan) architecture and style, which blends
in naturally with the environment.  Each hut has en-suite facilities including an open-air bush shower fuelled by
wood fires. The hut is comfortably fitted with white mosquito nets, crisp white linen and towels as well as with
standard bathroom amenities, bottled water (although the tap water is perfectly safe to drink) and insect repellent.
Umlani's philosophy of simplistic luxury and 'getting back to nature' is enhanced by no electricity, so each hut and the entire camp is lit by candle light and oil lamps.
 Photo by Arlene Havens
Additional Sites to Visit
Beyond the Timbavati
there are some optional daytime activities outside the reserve, which can be arranged by camp management. A transfer
service can also be organised to and from any of the activities listed below:
A one hour microlight flight over the Klaserie Big Five reserve
Nyani Shangaan Cultural Village
Early Morning Balloon Safaris
White Water Rafting Trips
Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre
Monsoon Gallery and Curios Centre
Horse Riding
Photo by Lois Hogan
Umlani Bushcamp
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MONTUSI in the DRAKENSBURG
Our wilderness experience now takes us to a retreat area to concentrate our attention on the dreams that have evolved.
Montusi Mountain Lodge offers genuine hospitality in the tranquility of one of the most beautiful settings in Southern
Africa. Situated in the Kwazulu-Natal Drakensberg, halfway between Johannesburg
and Durban,  Montusi offers an uninterrupted view of the Drakensberg's
most famous part, the Amphitheatre escarpment. Guests enjoy this spectacular scenery in the comfort of private
individual garden suites. Activities include hiking, horse riding, trout fishing, golf, swimming and even trapezing.
In the north-western corner of KwaZulu-Natal, on the border with Lesotho , a rugged wall of rock drops down for nearly
a kilometre from a plateau as old as Africa. Over a sheer, 4km wide, basalt cliff-face the waters of the Tugela river
plunge into a landscape exposed by erosion over millions of years. The cliff face has the shape of a semi-circle and
is hence called The Amphitheatre. It is widely described as the most
impressive part of the awe inspiring KwaZulu Natal
Drakensberg. The “top” of the Amphitheatre is a flat plateau, a remnant of the old Gondwanaland surface. In 1836 it inspired
the French missionaries Arbousset and Daumas to call its highest point the Mont-aux-Sources- mountain of sources. Five rivers
originate here, including South Africa’s longest river, the Orange. Most famous is probably the Tugela River, of great
ecological and historic importance. A short distance from its source on the plateau, the Tugela plunges over the edge
of the Amphitheatre in 5 clear leaps, over a total height of 850 meters, making it the second highest waterfall in the
world. This river (only a trickle in winter) has created a magnificent Gorge, with numerous spiraling rock formations,
caves, shaded forests and tunnels. For hundreds of years this wild and fertile area was home to the San (Bushmen) and
their many
rock paintings are testimony to their unobtrusive presence. The Amphitheatre is not only one of the most
spectacular landmarks in Southern Africa, it is also relatively accessible from both below (the Gorge) and above ( the
Plateau). This is a memory for a lifetime and…you don’t have to be super fit to experience it! This fine area has been
preserved for years as the Northern part of Ukhahlamba National Park, previously known as Royal Natal National Park. Recently,
it was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on account of both its spectacular natural beauty as well as its cultural
rock art heritage. Montusi Mountain Lodge faces the Amphitheatre at a distance of 20 kilometers and each of the suites has
a terrace looking out over the escarpment and lower lying foothills. Montusi is 18 kilometers from
the Park entrance.
CLIMATE
Winter, late June, July and August, is very dry (the "colour scheme" is now yellow under a pale blue sky), with the days
still often at an agreeable 20-22 C but cold nights with frost on the ground and occasional snow. This is a superb time
of year for active pursuits and dreamfilled nights with blazing log fires and
stars shimmering crystal clear in the winter sky. Veld fires are common in winter and form an essential part of the ecological
cycle. They are controlled by fire breaks with neighbours co-operating to direct and control the fires.
The People of the Drakensberg
For thousands of years the Drakensberg was inhabited by the unobtrusive Bushmen (San or KhoiSan) who left their delicately
balanced natural environment totally intact. Sadly, the San were displaced by the pressures of Nguni tribes and European
farmers. Today only their many rock paintings remain and it is estimated that over 35% of all San rock art in Southern
Africa is found in the KZN Drakensberg area alone, with new sites still being found to this day. The paintings are usually
quite scattered and often very difficult to reach. However, concentrations occur e.g. in the Giants Castle area, and many
individual sites can be reached after a pleasant hike (e.g. on the Montusi estate).
 Today's custodians of the Berg are the Zulu people, in our area particularly the AmaZizi and AmaNgwane, descendants of
Zulu tribes that fled from Shaka Zulu's terror in the early nineteenth century. Compared to many other parts of the country,
they still live a traditional and very rural way of life, with tribal areas ruled by chiefs. Wealth and status are determined
by cattle and many of the men migrate to the big cities to find work. It is a relatively peaceful but very poor area with
subsistence farming and tourism the only sources of income.
Photo by Kim Miller
KwaZulu-Natal
KwaZulu-Natal is one of South Africa's most diverse provinces, surrounded by the warm Indian Ocean in the east, Mozambique
and Swaziland in the North, Lesotho and the Free State in the west, and the Eastern Cape in the south. Its most well-known
city is Durban. KwaZulu-Natal offers all that Africa is famous for: beautiful scenery including Big-Five game reserves, a
fascinating history and a melting pot of cultures, endless beaches and a great climate all year round.
KZN Drakensberg
"KZN", as the locals call it, also has one of Africa's most stunning mountain landscapes. All along the border with Lesotho,
"the world's highest kingdom", runs the Drakensberg escarpment. Drakensberg means "The Mountain of Dragons" in the Afrikaans
language and the Zulu's call it even more graphically uKhahlamba, or "The Wall (or Barrier) of Spears".
It is a water rich area and great rivers such as the Orange River and the Tugela start their
long and important journey in these mountains.
 The views of the High Berg are spectacular with sunrise and sunset among the
favourite times of the day. In fact, it is an
area of absolute wonder, which many authors have tried to capture in words:
Sue Derwent in Africa Geographic (formerly Africa Environment & Wildlife) - issue August 2001: "Dawn in the Drakensberg is
a sight to swell the heart and send the spirit soaring. The dark, basalt walls of the escarpment surge dramatically into
a vast pink- and copper-streaked sky. In the valleys, soft charcoal-and-mauve clouds whirl and dissolve into rocky gorges.
The sun seeps into forests of yellowwoods, cycads and dripping tree ferns and its rays illuminate the magnificent buttresses
of orange sandstone, highlighting the streams of water tumbling from peaks and ramparts. For hundreds of throusands of years
this scene has been replayed, and witnessed by many who have found shelter and sustenance in these dramatic mountains.
Archaeological sites representing the Early, Middle and late Stone Age periods have been uncovered in the Drakensberg and
are among the most important in southern Africa".
From the point of view of access the Berg is generally divided into Northern, Central and Southern Berg. Montusi is in the
Northern Berg, i.e. roughly half way between Johannesburg (3,5 hours) and Durban (3 hours). The nearest town is Bergville
(50 km).
Flora and Fauna
With its climatic and geological conditions it is no wonder that the fauna, and especially flora, are unique. Apart from
the very elusive leopard, the Big Five do not inhabit the area. However, we do boast about the fantastic antelope, birdlife (especially birds of
prey), smaller mammals and reptiles. The largest antelope is the
eland, at 700 kgs, and now only to be found within the
borders of the National Parks. Smaller buck, especially reedbuck, bushbuck, blesbuck and duikers, are spotted frequently.
Lynx, serval, African wildcat, black-backed jackals, Cape fox, large spotted genets and otters occur also. Some of our
snakes are  dangerous (puffadders and rinkhals) but accidents are very rare
Photo by Arlene Havens
and can be avoided altogether when keeping
to a few basic rules. Baboons and rock dassies
can be seen on the cliffs. A multitude of small rodents provide prey for
the soaring eagles and vultures. Our birdlife is prolific with species count at over 200.
Photo by Lois Hogan
ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION
Clothing
The seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are directly opposite to those of the Northern Hemisphere.
Umbrellas and raincoats are essential for Western Cape winters. Warmer clothes are needed for the
winter months; tracksuits, warm jerseys or sweaters, vests and long johns, thick socks, gloves
and hats. At Umlani it will be lovely at midday and we'll probably be able to sit in a T-shirt
when the winds subside. Montusi is high up in the mountains and even at midday you generally
need a jersey.
Electricity
South Africa's electricity supply: 220/230 volts AC 50 Hz
Exceptions: Pretoria (230 V) and Port Elizabeth (200/250 V)
Most plugs have three round pins but some plugs with two smaller pins are also found on appliances.
Adaptors can be purchased but may be in short supply. US-made appliances may need a transformer.
Health Information
Malaria is found only in the Lowveld of Mpumalanga and Limpopo and on the Maputaland coast of KwaZulu-Natal.
Malaria is not much of a risk in the winter months. Although the incidence of malaria is rare, it would be
best to take adequate precautions. One reassuring thing about malaria is that there is absolutely no way
at all that you can contract it unless you are bitten by an infected mosquito. With modern insect repellents
and some common sense one can reduce the chances of being bitten.
Umlani states that the main recommendation is a Malaria prophylaxis.
Hepatitis A,B, Tetanus and Typhoid are
recommended by the CDC. In terms of health information the following web site provides the recommendation
from the CDC:
CDC_TRAVEL
Usually the CDC is cautious, however you need to do what you feel is best for you. If you bring prescriptions
bring them in their original prescription bottles. The availability of other medications may be limited
and therefore bring anything you think you may need.
Personal safety
For tourists, South Africa is as safe as any other destination in the world. South
Africa boasts a vast array of cultures, communities, sites and attractions. Most
parts of the country can be safely visited by tourists provided they take basic
common-sense precautions (for example not walking alone in deserted areas at night a
nd being circumspect about how much photographic equipment or jewelry you carry.
Food and water
As a rule, tap water in South Africa is safe to drink as it is treated and is free of
harmful microorganisms. In hotels, restaurants and nightspots, the standards of hygiene
and food preparation top-notch. It is safe to eat fresh fruit and salads and to put as
much ice as you like in your drinks.
Driving
All visitors intending to drive are required to obtain an international drivers permit,
visitors found driving without a permit will be fined and not permitted to continue on
their journey. Visitors will also not be able to rent a car without a valid driver's
permit. The wearing of seat belts is compulsory and strictly enforced by law and
driving is on the left side.
Photo by Lois Hogan
OUR DESTINATIONS
UMLANI and the TIMBAVATI GAME RESERVE/Four Days
UMLANI BUSHCAMP
MONTUSI MOUNTIAN LODGE/Three Days
MONTUSI MOUNTIAN LODGE
Suggested Reading and Websites:
Junkin, Elizabeth Darby, editor. South African Passage. Fulcrum, Inc. Golden Colorado, 1987.
Player, Ian. Zulu Wilderness - Shadow and Soul. Fulcrum Publishing, Golden Colorado, 1998
Van Der Post, Laurens. A Far Off Place.
TRAVEL DOCUMENTS
SOUTH AFRICA
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Photo by Lois Hogan
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